In November 2026, a BBC Watchdog investigation bought 25 pieces of jewellery advertised as sterling silver from five of the UK's biggest online marketplaces. Only two of them met the standard required to be called sterling silver. Eight contained cadmium — a toxic heavy metal and known carcinogen — above the legal limit, some at levels up to 10% where the law permits just 0.01%.
If you have ever bought a silver necklace, bracelet or pair of earrings online, that finding is worth understanding. Not because every inexpensive piece of jewellery is dangerous — it isn't — but because knowing what to look for protects both your skin and your wallet. This guide explains, in plain English, what "sterling silver" legally means, how to read a UK hallmark, which warning signs matter, and the questions worth asking before you buy from anyone, anywhere.
What "sterling silver" actually means
Sterling silver is not a style or a colour. It is a legal standard of purity: an alloy containing at least 92.5% pure silver, with the remainder made up of other metals — usually copper — that give the soft metal enough strength to survive daily wear. That is where the familiar "925" mark comes from: 925 parts silver per thousand.
In the UK, the description is protected. The Hallmarking Act 1973 makes it an offence to describe or sell an item as silver, gold, platinum or palladium unless it has been hallmarked by one of the UK's Assay Offices (or is exempt, as very small or very light items can be). Selling fake sterling silver carries the risk of fines or imprisonment — which tells you how seriously the law takes it.
This matters because a "925" stamp on its own is not a guarantee of anything. Anyone with a stamp and a hammer can mark a piece "925". It is a claim by the seller, not a verification by anyone independent. In the BBC investigation, items carrying a 925 mark were found to contain as little as 8.9% silver in part of the piece — the rest was other, cheaper metals.
The independent verification is the hallmark. That is the difference.
How to read a UK hallmark
A full UK hallmark is a small cluster of marks, usually stamped on the inside of a ring, the clasp of a chain or the reverse of a pendant. Loupe or phone camera at the ready, you are looking for up to five symbols:
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The sponsor's mark — the registered mark of the company or maker who submitted the piece for hallmarking. Every legitimate British maker has one, registered with an Assay Office.
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The metal and fineness mark — for silver, the walking lion (sterling, 925) or the Britannia figure (958). The number 925 may appear alongside.
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The Assay Office mark — an anchor for Birmingham, a leopard's head for London, a castle for Edinburgh, a rose for Sheffield. Every legally hallmarked piece sold in the UK carries one.
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The date letter — a single letter denoting the year of hallmarking. Traditional, lovely for heirlooms, no longer compulsory.
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Optional marks — a commemorative mark or a convention mark for items imported under the international convention.
If a listing claims an item is sterling silver but shows no hallmark and offers no explanation, treat it as a question rather than a bargain. Genuine sellers of hallmarked jewellery are usually proud of the mark — it is photographed clearly, because it is the one thing fakes cannot fake.
We cover this in more detail, with photographs of real hallmarks, in our Hallmarking Explained guide.
Cadmium, nickel and lead: what the news means for your skin
The uncomfortable part of the BBC findings was not just fake silver — it was what the fake silver contained.
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Cadmium is a toxic heavy metal, restricted in the UK to a maximum of 0.01% in jewellery. It is a known carcinogen, particularly associated with lung cancer, and is dangerous if ingested — a real consideration for earrings and rings that spend time near hands, mouths and food. Cadmium is used by some manufacturers because it is cheap, easy to work, and gives alloys a bright, silvery finish.
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Nickel is the most common cause of jewellery-related skin reactions. Sterling silver normally contains none, but it appears in cheaper alloys. A necklace that irritates your neck within hours of wearing it is telling you something. In the BBC investigation, one "sterling silver" chain was found to contain 11% nickel in part of the piece.
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Lead is another restricted substance that occasionally appears in low-cost imported jewellery and components.
None of this means you should panic about the jewellery you already own. It means that when a price looks too good to be true — a "sterling silver" bracelet for £1.55, as the BBC team found — the metal in it almost certainly is not what the label says.
Seven questions to ask before buying silver jewellery online
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Is there a hallmark, and can I see it? Ask for a close-up photo. A reputable seller will have one ready.
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Does the seller say who they are? A named maker, a studio address, a registered business — not an anonymous storefront.
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Does the price make sense? Silver is a commodity with a knowable metal value. A "925" piece priced at pocket-money levels cannot contain 92.5% silver and stay in business.
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Where was it made, and by whom? Handmade pieces from known studios carry the maker's reputation with them.
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What is the returns policy? Sellers confident in their materials take returns without argument.
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Can you speak to the person who made it? On a curated marketplace you can; on a global one you cannot.
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Does the listing describe the metal precisely? "Silver-plated", "silver tone" and "sterling silver" are three entirely different things. Honest listings say which one they mean.
Where Odissa stands
Odissa was built as the answer to the problem this investigation exposed. Every maker on our platform is an independent, verified UK jewellery studio — we know who they are, where they work, and what they make. Every piece described as sterling silver is exactly that: 92.5% silver, hallmarked as UK law requires, made by a maker who has spent a lifetime learning the craft.
We publish our full verification and hallmarking policy on our Trust & Verification page. If you are considering a commission or a ready-made piece and want to talk through metals, hallmarks or anything else, you can speak directly to the maker — no marketplace algorithm in between.
Jewellery is the most personal thing most of us will ever buy. It is worn against the skin, given to mark the moments that matter, and often intended to outlast us. It deserves the protections this country has spent seven centuries building — and it deserves sellers who are proud to prove it.
Frequently asked questions
Is a "925" stamp the same as a hallmark?
No. A 925 stamp is applied by the seller and is only a claim about the metal content. A hallmark is applied independently by a UK Assay Office after the metal has been tested, and is the legal proof required to describe an item as silver in the UK.
Can I get a skin reaction from fake silver?
Yes. Cheaper alloys often contain nickel, the most common cause of jewellery-related contact dermatitis. Redness, itching or irritation shortly after wearing a new piece is a reason to stop wearing it and ask the seller what it is made from.
How can I check silver at home?
The most reliable check is the hallmark itself. At home, genuine sterling silver develops a soft tarnish that polishes back (silver-plated items can polish through to a base metal), feels heavier than imitations, and carries no magnetic attraction — though none of these are conclusive on their own. If in doubt, any Assay Office can test a piece.
Is all cheap jewellery unsafe?
No. Fashion jewellery made honestly from declared materials — stainless steel, brass, silver-plated base metal — and sold as what it is, is a perfectly legitimate choice. The problem is jewellery described as something it is not.
Do all Odissa pieces have hallmarks?
All Odissa pieces described as sterling silver, gold, platinum or palladium are hallmarked as UK law requires. Our makers also work in other declared materials, which are always accurately described.
Where can I report jewellery I think is fake or unsafe?
Trading Standards, via the Citizens Advice consumer service. If you bought from an online marketplace, the marketplace itself should also remove the listing — the BBC investigation prompted exactly that on every platform it examined.
